Anchorage
Anchorage is the gateway for most of Alaska. It is, at least for me, a transition city. I was there for a week attending the conference before my wife got to town. This week was a lot of fun, but also exhausting. Anchorage is the one place in Alaska that feels like 'anywhere' USA. Strip malls, McDonalds, multiplex theatres, and everything else. Lots of cars.
On the other hand, there are a lot of trails, parks and bike paths in Anchorage. You run the risk, basically anywhere, of running into a moose. The week we were there saw a rash of black bear raids in the city for people's garbage, food, and for baby moose. In every direction you can see impossible mountains, including the unbelievably massive Denali.
So Anchorage is a bit of a mixed up town.
We arrived by plane at around 11 o'clock. We needed only a half-hour to get all our stuff into the bed and breakfast we were staying at.
Did I mention it wasn't dark at all? I knew, on an intellectual level, that there would be little real darkness in Alaska. I didn't know that my body would react so strangly to this fact. I was never ready to go to sleep during my first week there. I felt, always, as if I should be doing things. So at 11 30 (3 30 ET) my buddies and I left the B&B and headed downtown to see what was happening.
The week unfolded strangly. Unlike previous conferences I've attended, I didn't have the "my god this is fantastic" feeling at this conference. I can't quite put my finger on why that is, maybe because I've done it before, maybe because I felt like I was going to be away from home 'forever', maybe because I was just stretched too thin from not sleeping (too much light). Whatever it was, it haunted me throughout the first part of the week. Eventually I started to warm up and feel my usual excitement for new research ideas, but the beginning of the week I wasn't myself.
The resturants in Anchorage are pretty good, even if you don't like salmon. But, let's be clear, salmon is it. I'm not sure you could realistically survive in Alaska without eating a lot of salmon. The biggest irony of the week was that the big banquet for the society served what everybody said was the worst salmon they'd had all week. Ha! I got the veggetarian meal: A tri-color ravioli cheese dish with stir-fry asparagus. Tremendous.
This was also my first real week of not drinking anything carbonated or caffienated. Since this conference is always a major party, and I don't like to feel totally left out, this means I drank a lot of wine. In fact, during our big end-of-conference-bash I drank a whole bottle of a Riesling from Washington State (excellent).
The science was pretty good as well. Lots of people gave bad talks, but I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt: Long plane ride, 4 hr jet lag, and many people were distracted by the fact that they were in freaking Alaska.
See that's the thing, this is a group of ecologists. Deep down, most of us would love to be living in little cabins out in the open air. We'd like to live with the land. To poke and prod around streams, rivers, lakes, soils, and forests without harming the land. Most ecologists are unimaginable nature buffs. If you went to a society of physcologists and said "Yeah, I've been living in a one room cabin without heat or running water for the past three months while doing my research." the society might very well have you committed. If you mention that to a group of ecologists, they will be amazed, astonished, and (this is the key) incredibly impressed. "That's real ecology."
In fact, the ecologist ideology is almost like the macho-man syndrome. At these meetings there is a lot, a lot, of drinking. The most respected and admired members of the society are often seen closing the bars in whatever town the conference happens to be in, then getting up in time for 8 o'clock meetings the next day -- for 5 days straight. And that's what these guys are like in their 50s and 60s. I can't even imagine what these guys were like in their 20s. The science goes the same way. You would never admit you didn't do something just because it was impossibly difficult. Sample streams in the middle of winter, so that you have to dig through 12 inches of snow and another 12 inches of ice to get at 3 inches of flowing water? Of course we did, what do you think we are? Cell biologists? Lab rats?
Depressingly this isn't the case for the women. After numerous discussions with younger and older women in the society, I've decided the macho-ecologist syndrome is mostly reserved for the guys. There are a few women who do the same kind of thing, but by and large, the big-wig women in the society are just quietly brilliant. The guys get a little more attention. I guess that's just a matter of the personalities. Some of the younger women I've talked to think it is a sign of subtle discrimination. They might be right.
The other major event that happened in Anchorage was that I lost my wallet. This happened the last day I was in Anchorage without my wife. This was a catastrophe for two major reasons:
1. I was pretty sure it was accidently taken by one of the 8 people who left the B&B that morning. The only people who had been in the B&B were people from our immediate circle of co-workers and friends, and I seriously doubted anyone would have intentionally taken it without telling me. So I was pretty sure that if I waited until late that evening (when 6 of the missing 8 people would return), I figured the odds were good that I'd have my wallet back. Of course in the meantime I was without ID, money, cards, and $350 in cash.
2. I mentioned this to my wife. I knew I shouldn't have, but I had to make sure she was bringing her checkbook (so I could pay the B&B). She was already on her way to the Chi-town airport for her flight, and she basically flipped out. She was worried, frazzled, angry, and very tired when she arrived in Anchorage (I hadn't gotten the wallet back by then).
As it turned out my wallet (which was in my rain jacket) had been taken by the group of women who had left in the morning. Of course, I didn't get it back until after my wife had arrived in town and 'severely lectured' me on my idiocy.
That was Anchorage. We came back later in the week for a couple of random night and watched movies: A Prairie Home Companion (excellent) and MI:3 (not that bad). We also bought a bunch of ulus as mementos for family members. Overall I'd say Anchorage wasn't that fascinating. If you go to Alaska, fly into Anchorage, but don't stick around. Grab some food, maybe an ulu, and then get yourself the hell out of there.
Alaska Pt. II tomorrow!

